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"The
Virginia Redneck"
A modified Krystal Beadhead
Olive Wooly Bugger
(Hans
Loberg)
Pictures and detail tying
instructions below!
Hook: Size
10, 3XL - 4XL, wet fly, streamer type
Head:
Gold bead, 1/8"
Weight:
5 -7 wraps of non-lead wire pushed up against the bead
Thread: Black
Tail:
Black Marabou, 3 strands of Gold Krystal Flash
Body:
Dark Olive Chenille, Gold Or Silver Krystal Flash
Hackle:
Black saddle hackle, palmered
Neck:
Red Floss, a 3/32" wide band tied behind the bead head
Remarks:
Nothing hatching?! Don't worry...... -let the "lethal" Virginia
Redneck come to the rescue!
Essentially a standard beadhead olive woolly bugger with
some Krystal Flash mixed with the tail, one strand of Krystal Flash
counter-wrapped over the chenille, and most important, the trademark; a red
"neck" tied with red floss behind the bead head (to simulate the
reddish color of the gills in a small baitfish; -or just to make it look good).
After tying in the marabou tail, tie in the tip of the
hackle feather, one strand of Krystal flash and the chenille at the tie-in point
of the tail. Wrap the chenille, reverse wrap the krystal flash and palmer the
hackle and tie off about 1/8"
behind the bead head. Tie in the
floss behind the bead, finish tying off the thread, then wrap a 1/16" -
1/8" band of floss between the hackle and the bead head (a Whip-finishing
tool is handy).
Consider using non-water based head cement over the floss
to preserve the color when wet and to prevent unraveling.
For a size 6 or 8 hook, use a 5/32" bead, and two
layers of chenille over the body. (Use only a couple of wraps of lead wire if
you want to cast with a 5wt or lighter rod)
Variations? -none -the "Virginia Redneck" is
unique!
Detailed
tying instructions for the "Virginia "Redneck":
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Take the hook
and crimp the barb down.
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Put the bead on
the hook with the smaller opening towards the hook eye.
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Fasten the hook
with the bead in the wise.
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Make 5-7 wraps
of "lead" wire starting in the middle of the hook shank. Cut the
wire ends close to the hook shank. Use a pair of tweezers to fold the cut
tag ends of the wire against the hook shank. (Preferably use lead-free
weighted wire and use more wraps for deeper water or faster currents) Use
your thumb nail to push the wrapped lead wire up against the bead which
should now be against the hook eye. The lead wire should slide a bit inside
the larger flared opening of the bead.
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Start wrapping
the thread around the hook shank at
the end of the wire wraps. Wrap over the wire to the bead head, then back to
the end of the hook shank.
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Cut about 2
inches of the crystal flash and tie it in at the bend of the hook. Fold both
ends of the crystal flash backwards in a "V" shape and wrap over
the tie in point to secure.
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Take the black
marabou, stroke it back and pinch it between your thump and index finger
such that you have a section bout the length of the hook. Lay this over the
tie in point at the end of the hook shank and tie in with about 3 - 4 wraps
of thread. Trim off the marabou
section in front of the tie in point and secure the marabou tail with a few
more wraps. Use a little extra tension on the wraps to keep the tail from
turning.
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Take another 4
- 5 inch section of crystal flash and tie in at such that about 1 inch is
laying back over the top of the marabou tail. Fold the remaining section
back to be tied in later.
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Grab the tip of
a black hen hackle saddle feather and stroke the barbs backwards toward the
back of the feather.
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Tie in the tip
of the feather at the tie in point of the tail. Again fold the feather back
out of the way to be palmered in later. (One of those fine wire springs
fastened to the wise comes in handy to keep things held back out of the way)
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Take a 5 - 6
inch section of dark olive chenille. With your thumb nail or a pair of
scissors strip off about 1/4 inch of the "fuzz" to leave a bit of
bare thread. Tie in this bare
thread section at the tie in point of the tail.
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You now have a
section of crystal flash, a hackle feather and a piece of chenille tied in
at the end of the hook shank.
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Wrap the thread
forward all the way to the bead head, then back about 3/32 inch and let the
thread bobbin hang down.
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Wrap the
chenille forward in tight wraps and tie in 3/32" behind the bead head.
Secure the thread with a few wraps using a whip finishing tool.
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Take the
crystal flash and without stretching it, make reverse open wraps over the
chenille and tie in behind the bead head.
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Palmer (open
wrap) the hackle feather forward over the chenille and tie in 3/32"
behind the bead head.
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Wrap the thread
over the open space behind the bead head
and secure with a half hitch or a couple of turns using a whip
finishing tool. (do not cut the thread yet)
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Lay the end of
a 5"-6" section of red floss forward over the bead and cover the
floss with several wraps of thread. Pull the floss slowly back until the end
is just about covered by the thread wraps. Wrap in a few more tight wraps of
thread, tie in with a whip finishing tool and cut the thread. You now have a
5"-6" section of red floss tied in and hanging loose behind the
bead head.
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At this point I
dab a drop of non-water based head cement behind the bead head and hand wrap
a layer of floss behind the bead.
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Now I use a
whip finishing tool to wrap another layer of floss behind the bead head. Cut
off the end of the floss.
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If necessary
trim the krystal flash to about the same length as the marabou tail. The
non-water based head cement could also be applied at this stage. Tie another
one!
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Click on
Thumbnail picture below for the Anatomy of the Redneck.
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